The Kerrs of Ferniehirst.....finding the links to the Ulster-Scots

In July 2019 three of us visited Ferniehirst Castle, the border fortress of the Kerr family. It’s only open during July so we timed our Edinburgh trip perfectly. The Castle is at Jedburgh on the A68 Edinburgh to Newcastle Road in Scotland. I am a Kerr descendent so of course it’s been on the bucket list. It must be a thing to do as it seems everyone else there that day was either related to a Kerr or a Carr. The castle Is located in the original royal hunting grounds of Jedburgh on the upper portion of the Jedburgh forest It came into Kerr hands in 1457 The Kerrs became the keepers of the royal hunt and the grounds guarding the borders of England and Scotland.

My other companion on the trip was Christina also related to the Kerrs. We had rendezvoused in Edinburgh -she from NZ and my husband and I from Australia. Our own Kerrs came from Ireland to Scotland and then emigrated to Australia and New Zealand a couple of generations later.

Myself and Christina

I can’t say we have fitted the Kerrs of Ferniehirst exactly in our family tree. I’d say we have a gap of about 5 to 6 generations but plenty indicates our association.

Kerr is a Border Reiver Family Name

 When your surname is Kerr you are included in the 14th century Border Reivers Families notorious for their activities on the borders between Scotland and England. Think cattle rustling, feuds, pillage as well as murder and arson attacks. The border clans or families of reivers conducted moonlight raids from the 14th to the 17th century. They were skilled horseman ranging from labourers to peers, plundering livestock and raiding lands. It was a way of life to take from anyone outside your immediate family. It was more complex and it's worth a read of The History of the Border Reivers

Border Reiver families

Our Kerrs Were Ulster Scots

During our tour of this castle Bob Lawson who is the expert on all things Kerr said that some of the “naughty” Kerrs were probably sent to Northern Ireland. The era of the Border Reivers ended after the death of  Elizabeth I and James I was crowned King of England. Thomas Kerr and co had been supporters of Mary Queen of Scots and their relationship with the new Stuart King was not as trusting.

Some of the Border Reiver families and the Kerrs left Scotland and became part of the “Ulster Plantation”of Northern Ireland. This was an English government sanctioned colonisation process known as the Plantation of Ulster where these families moved onto land confiscated from the Gaelic Irish nobility. So the British solved two problems- getting rid of the marauding horse thieves of the Scottish Lowlands and the  colonisation stopped the people living in Northern Ireland fighting against the English rule. The Kerrs blended into life over there and became the part of the contingent of  Ulster-Irish.

This is where our six-generation gap comes in. My Kerrs return to Scotland about 5 years after the Great Famine after spending about 200 years in Ireland. With years of intermarrying in Ireland they would have felt more Irish than Scottish.  Irish were not accepted well in Glasgow – some were protestant and some Catholic. Within 2 generations some of our Kerrs had left for other parts namely Australia, England and NZ. 

Left-handedness is a common trait of the Kerrs.

We have left-handedness showing up in my family and close relatives. From my father’s generation through to the current grandchildren left-handedness keeps appearing in each generation. Kerrs took advantage of this left-handedness by building left-handed spiral staircases to disadvantage the enemy when advancing or retreating where the normal spiral staircase is clockwise the anti-clockwise staircase gave them the upper hand against right-handed warriors and an anticlockwise staircase features in Ferniehirst Castle.

The origins of the name Kjrr a is old Norse for “Marsh Dweller” but the name Kerr is also said to come from the Gaelic Coeer meaning left-handed, perverse, awkward, sinister.

As reported in the (Sydney) Daily Telegraph 7th January 1972, there is an old Borderer’s Ballad about the Kerrs.

The Kerrs were eye the deadliest of foes

That e’re to the Englishmen were known

For they were all bred left-handed men

And defence against them was none.

During the 70s the Royal College of General Practitioners began doing a research project on people with the surname Kerr or Carr to see how many were left-handed. The Royal College was trying to assess how much left-handed DNA survives in the Kerr or Carr clan after centuries of immigration and intermarriage. Around 1972 the British medical Journal confirmed about 30% of those with the surname Kerr we are left-handed as opposed to a background 10% of the population.

Back to Ferniehirst Castle -it’s an L-shaped construction on the banks of the Jed river about 1 ½

miles south of Jedburgh. The present Castle structure has been destroyed and rebuilt several times and the  present tower was built by Thomas Kerr circa 1740. The castle stands on a hirst which is a knoll. The “ferns on the Hirst” are probably the bracken ferns and brambles etc from the Jed River. Bob Lawson who is in the curator held a very informative tour. The castle is currently occupied by the Lord and Lady Ralph Kerr and we were asked to take external photos only. 

We were greeted at the Bastel house a beautiful older building built before 1609. This is the visitors centre with historical displays and Kerr merchandise, postcards and book for sale. Over the years it’s been used as a chapel and a stable. As we walked through the door way you look up to see the shield and monogram of Andrew Kerr and wife dame and Anna Stewart while below is a monogram of Dan or Andrew Kerr who was Andrew’s great grandfather. Bob recounted us with stories of feuds, lineage and marriages which he has retold in his book The Kerrs of Ferniehirst 1205 to 1692.

The inside tour of the Castle begins at the new old stairwell at the base of the tower. All around us were venerable Kerrs looking down on the current visitors who are inevitably Kerr or Carr heritage.  Next, we entered the Great Hall which is one of the main parts of the house open for inspection. 

The Tower Entry complete with Shields

The Great Hall is a large family room which can be divided off or opened up for entertaining or perhaps hired for functions. We didn’t see the famous spiral staircase which is now only in the upper part of the house. The walls were covered with reminders of Kerrs past and scenes from history- friezes painted around the rooflines. Of course, in several rooms some of the famous Kerrs look down from the heights of their portraits. There are also portraits of famous friends and enemies of the Kerr family of Ferniehirst including Royalty. It dawned on me with all the Sirs and Ladys that we were part of the Scottish nobility!

Another highlight of the internal tour was the circular library cum study of the current Laird. This was a later addition and the beautifully lit oak-panelled room is surrounded by books circling the Tower. Then it’s out through the kitchen to see the chapel and the museum located under the castle. Interestingly, the castle and outer buildings became used as a farmhouse in the 18th century. in 1933 the Scottish Youth Hostels Association obtained a lease and used it for accommodating young travellers. With its riding, cycling and walking opportunities it was quite a popular location on the backpacker’s trail. For a brief period during the war the building was used for the military. 

The castle lease was redeemed in 1983 by the 12th Lord and Lady Lothian and they restored Ferniehirst Castle as their home renovating and re-furnishing it extensively. It is currently the seat of the Clan Kerr.

The chapel in the undercroft

Lady Lothian made a chapel in one of the under crofts of the castle. The under croft would have previously been used to store provisions or house animals of the property. The chapel contains artefacts and gifts given to Lady Lothian to mark her campaigns for equality of women and promotion of women in business. We also visited the Museum in another of the crofts full of Kerr memorabilia and personal family items. There was a display of relevant Tartans and Plaids. 

Kerr Tartan and Plaids

Throughout Ferniehirst Castle the Coat of Arms, the shield and the seal of the Kerrs are seen on walls, above doors and in the cobbled floors. Elsewhere is seen the family creed Sero Sed Serio “Late But In Earnest”.

Sero Sed Serio

“Late But In Earnest”.

The Kerr shield is red with a silver chevron. in the centre are 3 red mullets in a star shape which represent the rowel of the riding spur.  Coat of Arms below is taken from "Burkes General Armory" compiled by Sir Bernard Burke, Ulster King of Arms to the Queen 1842. 

Certainly riding runs in the Kerr family to reinforce this Heraldry.  Kerrs ran businesses in horse drawn cab hire in Glasgow from 1850s until 1915 (with the coming of the motor car). James Cross Kerr enlisted in WWI and was taking care of war horses.  His father and half brother David were involved in horse training and trotting in Glasgow and David brought the skills to NZ where many of his family were involved in breeding and racing.

Here's a few more more shots from our excursion to Ferniehirst to share with the family.